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Trimming папильона
Fisher: Папильон подвергается незначительному триммингу. Стрижется шерсть на подушечках лапок , придается вид "заячьей лапы" стопе сверху и стригуться задние лапы , выстригается область вокруг ануса и паховая область.
Fisher1: Красота - страшная сила Конечно, в идеале ваш пес должен сам испытывать удовольствие от участия в выставке, есть собаки, которых охватывает настоящий кураж перед выходом на ринг. Однако и это не самое главное - если вы выставляете неухоженное животное, то даже на оценку "хорошо" не рассчитывайте. Лучше всего освоили хедлинг (показ собаки на ринге. - Авт.) владельцы длинношерстных собак, там помимо тренера с собакой работает и парикмахер - грумер. Уход за собакой, стрижка на профессиональном языке называется груминг. В Америке очень распространен собачий макияж. Это не значит, что вам нужно что-то скрывать, вы с помощью грамотно выполненного макияжа подчеркиваете достоинства собаки. Опытный специалист поможет подобрать и специальную косметику - шампуни, кондиционеры, мелки и муссы. Макияж должен быть естественным и не пачкать руки эксперту. У длинношерстных пород груминг очень развит, но практически никто из владельцев гладкошерстных пород даже не представляет, как можно изменить внешность гладкошерстной собаки с помощью груминга. Вы не думайте, что гладкошерстной собаке нечего постричь, очень часто линии и формы животного меняются в лучшую сторону, если умело поработать ножницами. Представьте себе, собакам даже стригут усы, из-за этого морда кажется более объемной, более четкой, но это должен делать только специалист. из статьи ХЭНДЛИНГ ВАШЕЙ СОБАКИ В РИНГЕ, Джейн АНДЕРСОН
CONFESSA: Стрижка шоу Бабочки http://slil.ru/26294676
Frodo: А английский вариант можно? Когда смотрю на екране, там оба варянта есть. Но печатается почему-то только русский... А из такого перевода мне местами довольно трудно понять, о чём речь... Было бы хорошо иметь возможность на оригинал взглянуть
Lenskyi: Девочки, английский вариант вот тут http://www.showpaps.com/grooming.htm мы это уже видели , нам Fisher всё перевела!
Phalderol: Отличный текстик, хотела перевести, но времени нет.
Lenskyi: да там и без перевода всё понятно-фотки очень наглядно всё объясняют
CONFESSA: Если хотите могу еще несколько текстов скинуть ?
Fisher1: только без автоперевода. Жанник перведет или я ..или еще кто..
CONFESSA: Grooming & Trimming The Papillon For Breed Competition Part 1 -- Grooming I have always believed that many of the factors which make a Papillon stand out in the show ring have nothing whatsoever to do with shampoos, brushes, combs, or scissors. Even the most expert use of these tools can't make an underweight or flabby specimen look "bright-eyed and bushy tailed". Additionally, it is simply foolish for any breeder to ignore the stresses imposed upon any dog by the show ring and multiple dog living situations. Both of these situations are unavoidable given our desire to better the breed. However, anyone ignoring this is foolhardy at best. It, therefore, follows that an optimum diet, along with plenty of exercise and fresh air are factors which separate canine couch potatoes from athletes. I guess this applies as much to four-legged beings as it does to two-legged ones. I also believe that, in Paps, at least grooming begins on the inside of the animal. If you provide your dogs with the environment previously mentioned the grooming part will be a snap. Anyway, back to the suds. You don't just throw Fifi in the sink and start scrubbing away. As a matter of fact, here comes the tricky part You have to put aside any kennel blindness you may have, (always a tough thing to do if you do it honestly), re your dogs' coats and accurately assess the quality of the coat on each one you're showing. The best and easiest way to tell whether or not your animal has perfect Pap coat is to simply take your hand and run it backwards against the dog's hair. If the coat falls right back into place you're home free-and lucky you Maintaining this coat will be "hair without the care". It is single and straight. It has the flexibility of nylon but feels like "peau d'ange, (that's French for angel's skin-c'est vrai-a truly wonderful type of satin). There are a few constants re shampooing. Tri's, black and whites and deep sable Paps should be washed in clear, blue or white shampoos only. These colors will not yellow the coat and may be used all over the dog. There are some purple shampoos available. If you opt to try one of these I suggest first doing so on a dog that's not being shown. If you don't rinse extremely well your dog will come out with a bluish/purple cast on the white part of the coat. Not good-unless you want to have them looking like the "little old ladies" from THE PRODUCERS. Human preparations that are designed for Platinum Blondes or for silver hair can be used very successfully. There are many "doggy" shampoos that also fit the bill. Whitening shampoos do not drain color from blacks, tris or deep sables. A true red I think requires a little more specialized care at least on the fringe and head area. A good dog shampoo that will not leach the color out of the head and fringes should be used. Use of a whitening shampoo on these dogs may wash out the red with prolonged use. Now, re cream rinses-the same color parameters apply as with shampoos for dogs that require their use. If you are blessed with a dog with that 100% PERFECT Papillon coat, you shouldn't even need any cream rinse, at least on the body. However, reds, or sables that phenotypically appear to be mostly red, may need a TINY bit on their fringe. I've noticed that red fringes are a great deal dryer than black, tri-color, or sable ones. I believe that this may be why reds seem to grow so much less fringe. I find that cream rinse applied to other colors of fringe makes it look oily and stringy, neither of which are particularly butterfly-like. Also, some blacks have such oily fringe that, just the ear fringe, should be washed in a de-greasing detergent. When you're through with the shampooing do not towel dry the dog. Rather, blot dry. You don't want to make your job harder by making mats with the towel. This is a no-brainer if you think about it. The other thing that you must always remember is that wet hair is 30 to 50% more fragile than dry. If your dog's coat is less than perfect you may have to not only cream rinse but also invest in that most dangerous grooming tool…the comb. Trust me, improperly handled, a comb can be a devastating instrument of torture to your dog and an interesting way for you to make his coat look like he just came from having a beautician give him a good layer cut. So, now you are ready to start drying. Leave the dog wrapped fairly securely in the towel and dry the fringes and ears first. This will prevent fringe wrinkles. NEVER USE A COMB ON WET FRINGE. If you can avoid it, don't use a comb on fringe period. As a matter of fact, try to avoid using a comb period. This is a very easy thing to do on correct coat; not so easy if that's not what you're dealing with. The rest of the dog should be done section by section just like your own hair. Perfect Pap coat can be blown against the grain as it will always fall correctly. This will dry the dog more quickly and make sure that the coat stays straight. Less than perfect should be blown in the direction in which it should lay. Please remember to dry the whole dog-not just the hair on top If you do encounter a mat DO NOT attack it viciously with the comb. Try a good, large soft pin brush first. You will be amazed at the effectiveness of a good pin brush. You just have to have the patience to separate the coat, and any mats, into sections, and work on each one separately. This can be a relaxing experience for you and your dog-and it should be. If you do have to use a comb make sure that the comb has both narrow and wide spaced teeth. ALWAYS check the troublesome area with the wide toothed end first. Once you define the matted spot use your fingers to gently move the non-affected hair away. Then, even more gently, use the wide teeth on the mat placing the teeth on the end of the mat closest to the skin. DO NOT YANK OR PULL. Gently push the comb against the mat. It may seem that nothing has happened. No biggy. Just keep repeating this and eventually the mat will move down the hair shafts. When it gets to the very outer ends of the strands you may be able to just ease it out the rest of the way with your fingers. If you are unfortunate enough to run into a cotton-batting of a mat you may not be able to get the comb behind the mat. In this case you may have to take desperate measures. First pull apart as much of the mat as you possibly can with your fingers. Then hold the comb vertically and split the smallest section possible with the comb by gently pulling downwards. You're probably going to loose coat by doing this but you're already in a no win situation. If you leave that mat there it's just going to get bigger. I find that they appear mostly when a bitch starts playing with her puppies or when the dogs go through seasonal coat changes. As we can't change the seasons and we would never deprive a mother of her pups, nor the pups of their mother, it can happen. One other thing-DON'T EVER, EVER USE ANY SLICKER BRUSH ON A PAP!! It will break the hair in an instant and you'll have nothing but split ends. Unless they are cut off this hair will just keep splitting further and further up the hair shaft-frizz city!! Remember these aren't Poms or Poodles. Part 2 -- Trimming So, now you have your beautiful dog clean, dry and shining. Where do you go from here? The most important thing to remember is that "less is sometimes more". This may not make much sense to you now but wait and see. First, I always trim the face whiskers off. I know that many people think that this is terrible. They say that the whiskers are vibrissae and act as sensory organs without which a dog cannot function. My view is that there is an awful lot of very happy Poodles and they CANNOT enter the show ring with their vibrissae due to the mandated shaving of their muzzles, per AKC. Said poodles seem to me to be quite happy. They are certainly able to function both in and outside the show ring. They remain sane and normal. I see no reason to assume that our Paps, who certainly are at least as intelligent than these fake Frenchmen, will not react in the same manner. Also, it is very important that you check the direction in which the whiskers are growing. I have seen some growing straight up towards the eye. Leaving these is just asking for eye ulcers and other visual irritations. If you see any growing in this direction please at least cut these. The whiskers may be removed with a scissors with rounded tips or with a small electric clipper. Obviously this must be done the night before the show because whiskers grow back so quickly. If you opt for the clipper make sure that you are adept with it and that the noise won't freak Fido out of his mind by testing it out well before the show. Now, to the ears. Many, many people trim the ear to a rounder shape, especially if there are some hairs near the tip that make the ear look pointed. I do not. I, perhaps foolishly, live in hope that every one of those hairs will some day be fringe. I have found that if you back brush the whole ear to the very tip when drying you can maximize the round shape. Now, to the other end. I always trim around the vent for neatness and in case of intestinal/bowel catastrophe. It does help if you unfortunately confronted with this problem. As with whisker trimming, this should be done rather close to show time. About a week before the show check the tips of the tail. Tails are the spot of the dog where split ends are most likely to appear. Once you have them they will just get worse and worse as hair is like a skein of yarn. Once split it will just continue to unravel further and further up the hair shaft. The only way to stop further damage is to snip the problem in the bud, as it were. Take the tail; twirl the end around into a tight, little ball. You will now be able to see the split ends. Snip these off with a scissors leaving the good hair untouched. Now to feet. Dogs basically have two types of feet. Cat feet, in which all the toes are of the same approximate length giving the foot a blunt, rounded appearance. Then there are Pap feet. These differ a great deal from cat feet. Our Standard states that both front and rear feet should be "thin and elongated (hare-like)". The feet look like this because the two middle toes should be longer than those on the side giving the foot a pointed appearance. Our standard also says that the "hair on the feet is short, but fine tufts may appear over the toes and grow beyond them, forming a point". I do trim feet. I feel that I don't want the foot to look shaggy. After all, these aren't Pekes we're dealing with. Also, I have seen cases where the hair, left to its' own devices, will get so unkempt that the pointed appearance will disappear. I trim the feet to a point. This generally means snipping off a few stray hairs on the sides. I do not trim the top of the foot. I also trim the hair between the pads with a small sharp scissors for two reasons. The first is to increase the animal's traction. A dog whose pads are covered in hair may do very well in DISNEY ON ICE, but I can't think of a single judge who has asked anyone to gait in a "Hamill Camel". Paps aren't stupid. They know when they literally, can't get a grip. How can they be expected to put their "best feet forward" when they're afraid of sliding across the ground? Second, I want the judge to be able to see those pads when I move my dogs. It helps to emphasize good movement when those black pads can all be seen moving away in the right direction. Well, you're now all done. C'EST fini!! You are ready to get up at 5AM on a weekend, run around like a maniac, get to the show and wait for an hour (at least) and then get your two minutes in the ring. But, if your dog looks and feels great it's all worth it to us. And you wonder why non-doggie types think we're nuts?!?!
Fisher1: хочу показать вам стрижку подо льва..этот папик-американец владелец сказал, что хотелось попробывать что-то новое в грумерском салоне...
Frodo: Fisher1 пишет: хотелось попробывать что-то новое в грумерском салоне... Нуууу... Я бы скорее сказала, что ему лень ухаживать за шерстью И он решил поиздеваться над собакой...
Fisher1: да, его стрижку обсмеяли , сказали , что малыш похож теперь на чиха.. шерсть папика не такая сложная в уходе, чтоб делать стрижки.))
Заноза: действительно стал похож на чиха =)
Бьёнси: А я по наивности считала что триминг это чуть другое, а стрижки и подготовка к выставке грумингом зовётся. Когда у меня был ризеншнауцер мы его триминговали перед стрижкой. И у меня отложилось что триминг это выщипывание подшерстка. А в этом году летом я нежно протриминговала Бьёнси когда она начала нещадно линять. За несколько дней я чудненько протриминговала её линяющую шерстку. причем вся шерсть линяла только со спины чуток с боков. а сейчас смешная картина. Груда шерсти растёт как шапка сверху и имеет чёткие границы, а потом уже идёт юбка.
tails89: Бьёнси Лен, если не секрет... А тримминговала просто пальцами? Или с применением каких то приспособлений???
Бьёнси: tails89 Ну, пальцами триминговать нынче не модно, , во блин збыла как эта расчёсточка называется с миллионами тоооненьких зубчиков, пуходерка что-ли? Вот ей родимой и триминговала. Сначала по шерстке, а потом акуратненько против. Очень хочу сказать вещь эффективная. А то я подзадолбалась с ковров шерсть убирать.
tails89: Бьёнси Я думала, что чем то ещё... С пуходёркой то мы с самого детства дружим... Правда не очень любим эту дружбу. Всё равно от неё не очень много толку. Вот если бы такой инстрУмент, что бы всю отмершую шерсть сразу удалял... В общем для ленивых владельцев
Бьёнси: tails89 пишет: Вот если бы такой инстрУмент, что бы всю отмершую шерсть сразу удалял. tails89 У папика если только со всей шерстью и ушами. А мне понравилось так триминговать,пуходеркой, да потом этот агрегат тоже зверская штука, а если дергать чем триминговали мы своего ризена это будет тушите свет. А потом мне показалось что линяют не сразу все нужные шерстинки, а какимито волнами. tails89 пишет: В общем для ленивых владельцев Для ленивых владельцев пылесос.
olgia: сколько всего интерсного! позназвательного и полезного это сколько ж надо знать и уметь, будем по тихоньку осваивать азы, наверное главное не запустить собачку и очень надеюсь на помощь, у вас на форуме дружный коллектив
drygrapes: olgia это точно! уход за собакой-целое искусство! сама недавно это узнала
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